Still, percussion grenades at like 4am in the morning? The IDF does invade the city nightly to arrest and assassinate people, so perhaps that's what they were using them for. But a dozen or two? That confuses me. Why that many? Why any at all? The Israeli army is one of the most advanced in the world. They could easily accomplish these nightly incursions and arrests with total stealth if they wanted. But that's not the point, is it.
"The guys on the hill were probably just bored," Kim hypothesized. The 'guys on the hill' are the IDFers who man the giant military base that overlooks the city. It seems as if every strategic hilltop in the West Bank is populated either with Israeli troops or settlers, who themselves are armed as well. Or both. In Hebron, 1000 soldiers guard 600 settlers. This particular base, we're told by the Project HOPE staff, houses nuclear weaponry. No wonder Israel doesn't want to give up the West Bank. They have major infrastructure here, and have clearly set up these hilltop outpost as part of a strategically significant military zone should any of their neighbors pop in for a war. Haya, one of our translators, doesn't understand it. "It's not like anyone is going to march into Israel. I think they would prefer to shoot."
A couple days later we mentioned the sound bombs to our latest interview, the Minister of Culture and Women's Affairs for the Palestinian Authority, this fascinating woman who's spearheading women's rights legislation and whose husband was assassinated by the Israelis in 1986. She thought the sound bombs were just the IDF reminding Nablus that "they're still here." "That they can do whatever they want," she continued, "that they're in control, not the Authority." She seconded my thoughts on infrastructure as well. "They're strengthening Hawara checkpoint, building it up. They're building an airport there, for helicopters. When you pass through Hawara checkpoint, do you feel there are peace negotiations taking place?"
Hawara is the main checkpoint to get into Nablus, through which Gabriella and I pass any time we want to go to Ramallah, Jerusalem, our weekend trips to Bil'in, to Qalqilya. The helicopters she mentioned will of course be American helicopters, since Israel does not build its own. It doesn't have to. A third of America's total foreign aid package goes to Israel. IfAmericansKnew.org, a website that keeps statistics on the conflict, pegged it at about $6.8 million per day in aid to Israel in 2007. Our aid accounts for 20 percent of Israel's total defense budget. Since Israel's birth, the U.S. has handed it $101 billion, though some have put the total cost of our support for Israel -- support during the 1973 war, the costs to U.S. manufactures created by anti-Arab embargos, etc. -- at about $3 trillion. The website is linked on the right side of this page.
A couple days later we mentioned the sound bombs to our latest interview, the Minister of Culture and Women's Affairs for the Palestinian Authority, this fascinating woman who's spearheading women's rights legislation and whose husband was assassinated by the Israelis in 1986. She thought the sound bombs were just the IDF reminding Nablus that "they're still here." "That they can do whatever they want," she continued, "that they're in control, not the Authority." She seconded my thoughts on infrastructure as well. "They're strengthening Hawara checkpoint, building it up. They're building an airport there, for helicopters. When you pass through Hawara checkpoint, do you feel there are peace negotiations taking place?"
Hawara is the main checkpoint to get into Nablus, through which Gabriella and I pass any time we want to go to Ramallah, Jerusalem, our weekend trips to Bil'in, to Qalqilya. The helicopters she mentioned will of course be American helicopters, since Israel does not build its own. It doesn't have to. A third of America's total foreign aid package goes to Israel. IfAmericansKnew.org, a website that keeps statistics on the conflict, pegged it at about $6.8 million per day in aid to Israel in 2007. Our aid accounts for 20 percent of Israel's total defense budget. Since Israel's birth, the U.S. has handed it $101 billion, though some have put the total cost of our support for Israel -- support during the 1973 war, the costs to U.S. manufactures created by anti-Arab embargos, etc. -- at about $3 trillion. The website is linked on the right side of this page.
We've been learning a lot about explosions lately. On the way back from Qalqilya the other day (see Gabriella's post below), just before we got to Nablus our taxi was met with an IDF soldier pointing his M16 straight at us, shouting wildly. This was his way of informing our cab driver that the checkpoint ahead was closed and we'd have to stop and wait for it to reopen. We've found that the checkpoint guards deal with the Palestinians rather aggressively. One man approaches a guard with a simple question, maybe 50 years old, nice dress shirt, clearly harmless, and is met with a soldier practically up his nose screaming, "LAAAA! LAAAA!" ("No! No!) and pointing towards the line of other Palestinians waiting as he continues to shout, "Halla! Halla!" ("Now! Now!").
Finally we got out of the cab and asked one of the four or five soldiers hanging around what was going on, why was the checkpoint closed. We weren't really expecting much of an answer, since checkpoint closures tend to be rather random. His commander probably just gave an order to shut it down, and he probably followed it, no questions asked. Or maybe the guards themselves decided they wanted a break, or wanted to take apart a car. Boredom is a problem at the checkpoints.
Finally we got out of the cab and asked one of the four or five soldiers hanging around what was going on, why was the checkpoint closed. We weren't really expecting much of an answer, since checkpoint closures tend to be rather random. His commander probably just gave an order to shut it down, and he probably followed it, no questions asked. Or maybe the guards themselves decided they wanted a break, or wanted to take apart a car. Boredom is a problem at the checkpoints.
"Suicide Bomber," he replied.
Oh.
We inquired further. By this time the IDF soldiers had ushered Gabriella and me into a shady patch by their Humvee. Special treatment for the Americans. We were allowed to chill with them well ahead of the rest of the Palestinians, who were waiting to cross maybe 50 yards back. This way, the IDF explained, we could get a head start on them and get to the checkpoint before a line formed, even though they had been waiting long before we arrived.
They told us all they knew of the incident. It seemed they hadn't actually been privy to much. Apparently their colleagues manning the checkpoint directly had stopped two men trying to sneak bombs out of Nablus. How did they find the bombs? "Intelligence." What was the procedure, remove the bomb vests and detonate them at a safe distance from the crowd? "Yes, or shoot the bombers and detonate the bombs while they're still strapped in."
"How often does this happen?" I asked.
"Too often."
"What, like once a month, once a week?"
"How should I know?! It's not like they have a schedule."
Fair point.
Fair point.
It was all rather vague and suspect, but nevertheless, only seconds later we heard the detonation of the first bomb, and then minutes after that, the second. Like I said, we're getting to be rather versed in the difference between the high crack of a gunshot and the low slap of an explosion. While we waited for the last bit of safety checks and such to take place, we chatted more with the soldiers, while receiving looks of betrayal from the Palestinians waiting nearby. I asked one soldier if he liked serving (he was well past his third year now, past his obligation), expecting a "Sure, it's fun," like I'd heard from the IDF on the bus to Jerusalem. "No, of course not," he replied. "Nobody likes it. You, when you're 18, 19 years old, you go off to University. We, we're....here. Doing this. Nobody likes doing this. I'd rather be at the beach, with my beer." He actually looked rather depressed.
Soon afterward the checkpoint was reopened. A quick photo with the IDF and their Humvee and we were on our way. Back home, later that evening, we told Kim about the incident, and he said he'd already read about it in the news. Two boys, apparently 17 and 18 years old, arrested for smuggling bombs. Talking with Kim further deepened my suspicions. One of his adult English students has a brother who was arrested for making bombs, except he's never made bombs, doesn't know a thing about it. Arrests are made all the time without charges, with false charges. Bomb making and smuggling is apparently a popular fiction. Many of the prisoners Israel takes as 'terrorists' are actually just politicians or intellectuals who might give them trouble in the future. Or not even. Often when a man is arrested he's forced to point out more so-called 'terrorists' or suffer the consequences, and a witch-hunt scenario ensues.
Who would be so stupid as to try to sneak a couple bombs through a checkpoint? Why not just take one of the other roads out of Nablus where the checkpoints have been shut down? Sure they're not nearly the most direct route, and a spontaneous or "flying" checkpoint might open up anyway, but it's probably worth the risk and the extra few hours to avoid the existing checkpoints. How often does it happen? Too often. Not just last week, not 12 times since I've been serving. Too often. Maybe it was legit. Maybe it was command pulling a stunt to maintain justification for the checkpoints, to give their boys on the ground something to shake the boredom. I don't know.
More gunshots last night, this time a full-out gun battle, automatic rifles, exchange of fire. We've moved back to the original apartment we were in because the lease on the other one is up. Now we're further down the hill, closer to the valley where most of the action takes place, so the shots not only woke me but practically made me jump out of my skin. The city feels completely safe during the day, it really does. Safer than anywhere I've ever been to or lived. Safer than New York, than New Haven, than the midwest. Hell, than my tiny suburban upper-middleclass hometown Cresskill. Here people will help you. Here people truly care about each other, about total strangers even. It feels secure, an honest city going about its business. Safe. It's only at night, when the IDF comes, that that changes.
Yesterday four young boys, maybe 8 years old, invaded our drama class at Balata refugee camp wielding very realistic toy automatic rifles and pistols. Given all we've learned from the IDF about weaponry these past few weeks -- teargas, rubber bullets, live ammo, sound bombs, real bombs, single shot kills, automatic fire, M16s, AK47s -- I can only imagine the education these kids are receiving. Balata is the most heavily invaded camp in the city. We took a tour the other day -- bullet holes everywhere. These kids are surrounded by it. They have no choice but to take it in, learn it, co-opt it, try to find some way to cope with it. It's what they grow up in. American children are surrounded by music videos and Paris Hilton and we have a million little Britney's in training walking around the malls. Palestinian children are surrounded by war. But still they resist. There aren't a million little terrorists in training. Any of our students who are old enough to know what they want, want peace. It what's they write about in their homework assignments. It's the message they demand we bring back to the States.
They shouldn't have to resist, they shouldn't have to battle their own surroundings. It would be so easy to fix. To give them a peaceful childhood. To make peace.
End the occupation. That's it.
Much love,
John
Who would be so stupid as to try to sneak a couple bombs through a checkpoint? Why not just take one of the other roads out of Nablus where the checkpoints have been shut down? Sure they're not nearly the most direct route, and a spontaneous or "flying" checkpoint might open up anyway, but it's probably worth the risk and the extra few hours to avoid the existing checkpoints. How often does it happen? Too often. Not just last week, not 12 times since I've been serving. Too often. Maybe it was legit. Maybe it was command pulling a stunt to maintain justification for the checkpoints, to give their boys on the ground something to shake the boredom. I don't know.
More gunshots last night, this time a full-out gun battle, automatic rifles, exchange of fire. We've moved back to the original apartment we were in because the lease on the other one is up. Now we're further down the hill, closer to the valley where most of the action takes place, so the shots not only woke me but practically made me jump out of my skin. The city feels completely safe during the day, it really does. Safer than anywhere I've ever been to or lived. Safer than New York, than New Haven, than the midwest. Hell, than my tiny suburban upper-middleclass hometown Cresskill. Here people will help you. Here people truly care about each other, about total strangers even. It feels secure, an honest city going about its business. Safe. It's only at night, when the IDF comes, that that changes.
Yesterday four young boys, maybe 8 years old, invaded our drama class at Balata refugee camp wielding very realistic toy automatic rifles and pistols. Given all we've learned from the IDF about weaponry these past few weeks -- teargas, rubber bullets, live ammo, sound bombs, real bombs, single shot kills, automatic fire, M16s, AK47s -- I can only imagine the education these kids are receiving. Balata is the most heavily invaded camp in the city. We took a tour the other day -- bullet holes everywhere. These kids are surrounded by it. They have no choice but to take it in, learn it, co-opt it, try to find some way to cope with it. It's what they grow up in. American children are surrounded by music videos and Paris Hilton and we have a million little Britney's in training walking around the malls. Palestinian children are surrounded by war. But still they resist. There aren't a million little terrorists in training. Any of our students who are old enough to know what they want, want peace. It what's they write about in their homework assignments. It's the message they demand we bring back to the States.
They shouldn't have to resist, they shouldn't have to battle their own surroundings. It would be so easy to fix. To give them a peaceful childhood. To make peace.
End the occupation. That's it.
Much love,
John
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